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Connecting Rebar Together

The use of reinforcing bar rod (rebar) in the process of pouring concrete construction is a standard practice.  Rebar is common steel reinforcing bar, an important component of reinforced concrete structures. Rebars are inserted vertically into hollow cinder block walls before concrete is poured into the wall. They give the wall additional strength to keep the wall together in natural disasters. It is usually formed from mild steel, and is given ridges for better frictional adhesion to the concrete.
 
In structures like walls and driveways, the rebar is placed in a grid pattern.  In this process the rebars are held together at the intersection by twisted steel wire. This wire is usually 16 gauge. 
 
In the old days, the job of tying the grid pattern together was done by a Rod Buster. He carried a spool of wire attached to his belt and with a simple Lineman’s Pliers (UP-B200 or UP-B604) could form hundreds of rebar intersections in a short amount of time. It is a learned and practiced skill. In a symphony of hand-eye coordination, a seasoned Rod Buster is considered a highly skilled position in the construction industry.
 
Today, with the advent of Japanese electronic rebar tying machines (available from White Cap, Orco and other construction supply houses), the art of hand tying concrete forms is being relegated to smaller construction jobs.  The main reason for this is the overall expense of the machine.  For contractors that can’t afford a full-time Rod Buster another system was developed that used standard bag tie wire (from the agriculture business – used for closing burlap sacks) and a tool with a hook. The bag tie wire has been around for along time. It is a simple formed wire with an eye-loop on each end.  It is very inexpensive and available almost everywhere.
 
 The best hook tool is made and patented by Benner-Nawman, Inc. out in Arizona (UP-B48).  The tool is really a bit that is placed into a cordless drill. Simply hold the tie wire in the right hand finger tips and insert it behind the crossed rebar. The Hook end of the bit goes through the upper eyelet and grabs it to form a “U”.  The eyelet in the finger tips is then placed on the hook next and all you have to do give it a bit of back pressure and squeeze the trigger.  A little back pressure will cause the wire to break at the eyelet rather than at the bar if you over twist it. The result is a very good tight connection. The cost is also something to think about.  The Japanese electronic tying machines cost $2,000 and the hook tool bit is only $5.00.  I think I will stick with the hook. By the way, Benner-Nawman also makes the best portable rebar cutters and benders in the business…

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